Monday, September 24, 2012

Frankfurt. Finished.

22- 26 of Sept, 2012

3 days of rest in Frankfurt (Pictures)

I have heard Germans express virulent disdain for Frankfurt. Now, I understand why. It is a filthy place. Happily moving on Wednesday to suffer through some silly long layovers in London and NYC.


Hotel: Ramada Hotel Frankfurt City Center. Interesting experience. The room was smaller than my out stretched arms. 

Sept. 22
GPS - Mainz to Frankfurt am Main (Pictures)

Frankfurt. Finished!!!  


TotalsMiles/FTKM/M
Distance2,072.733,335.73

Army memories in Rhineland-Palatinate (Rheinland-Pfalz):

Summary of 3 days - Kaiserslautern to Mainz:
  • This area is where I was stationed for a couple of years. There’s deeply mixed feelings about this place. The US Army left, but you can see what’s left in the wake of 60 something years of occupation.
  • This is a pretty place with deep woods... and once you’re away from the city... even deeper German culture. One of the most striking things is realizing the cost these small places have paid for Wars. Not just WW2, but all the wars that have come before. It kind of makes you mad if you focus on it too much.
  • It’s a good place to ride a bike, but it’s also cold and often steep.

Facts:

Distance: 46.05 mi
Time: 5:52 / Moving Time: 4:06
Avg Speed: 7.8 mph / Avg Moving Speed: 11.2 mph / Max Speed: 35.8 mph
Elevation Gain: 2,444 ft
Elevation Loss: 2,779 ft
Min Elevation: 203 ft
Max Elevation: 867 ft
Weather - Low 60's Northern Euro Cold
Climbs - 3 after mile 19
Difficulty - 6 Distance and Climbs.
Scale:
0 = 25 miles around San Francisco with the marin headlands climb.
10 = Next to the last day of a hell week in the military with a few hours of sleep.

Hotel - overpriced business hotel, but I was tired and cold.


Comments:
A. Long day. There were a couple of hills through rhine’s vineyards after Bad Kreuznach. Fairly wearing.
B. Mainz is a great town to visit. There’s a college with all the things that brings. Vibrant place with a historical center that’s been rebuilt.

Facts:

Distance: 26.06 mi
Time: 4:19 / Moving Time: 2:30
Avg Speed: 6 mph / Avg Moving Speed: 10.4 mph / Max Speed: 39.6 mph
Elevation Gain: 2,274 ft
Elevation Loss: 2,475 ft
Min Elevation: 620 ft
Max Elevation: 1,488 ft
Weather - 60-70's Northern Euro Cold and Sunny.
Climbs - Yes! Harder than it looks on the map
Difficulty - 3. Harder than the miles indicate.
Scale:
0 = 25 miles around San Francisco with the marin headlands climb.
10 = Next to the last day of a hell week in the military with a few hours of sleep.

Hotel - Hotel Pfaelzer Hof Highly recommended. Vet’s will remember this place.


Comments:
A. Kriegsfeld, North Point Army Depot: Isolation is a hard thing.

This is where I spent 2 years in the Army. It's a remote site...the only outside contact was mail.  When I first got there, we had no english Tv, radio, nor papers. There was a pay-phone at the gate, but it was too expensive for a pvt->pfc->spc. paying for college... and car in storage to drive during college. Just the Army everyday... kill a commie for mommie. 1985... cold war, so it didn't come to that but we did have losses. For example:

    • 2 guys jumped out of the barracks. Couldn't take it. Both lived.
    • 1 guy had a heart attack training for a special forces course. Died.
    • 1 guy smacked a rock face repelling. Knee face and shoulder. Eventually let our as a cripple. 
    • Too many cases of guy's cracking and doing stupid shit to get kicked out to remember.
    • My truck got blown up after I parked it right after we bombed Libya.

Its mixed feelings to come back here, see weeds grow on the former special weapons site. For the junior enlisted, this place was a steep price to pay and no one even understood. 1985... everyone through being in the army overseas was a cake walk.

North Point marked the lives of the young people that served there. For some, it was a high-point. For most, it was a burden they couldn’t wait to leave behind.

I went on to do other things in and out of the Army. Many of them more dramatic, but none stick out more than this place. I’ll always have deep respect for the people that served here.

B. I stopped at the North Point, 952 and rode through Kriegsfeld->St. Alban to Rockenhausen. The biggest change... weed growing where nukes used to be, wind turbines growing on some of the farms, and the gate on 952 was open. I stood there amazed. In my time, some crazed, lonely, been a tower too long MP would have shot you.  Other than that, it’s still a “truly” German place.

C. As biking goes, the hills are steeper/pitchier than I remember. The first climb out of Kirchheim is pretty tough. The forest is thick and dark. You can’t see 30’ feet into the tree line, but it’s pretty. The roads are good.

Facts:

Distance: 25.45 mi
Time: 2:57 / Moving Time: 2:15
Avg Speed: 8.6 mph / Avg Moving Speed: 11.4 mph / Max Speed: 24.4 mph
Elevation Gain: 1,181 ft
Elevation Loss: 1,112 ft
Min Elevation: 607 ft
Max Elevation: 1,035 ft
Weather - 60-70's Northern Euro Cold, windy, and Sunny.
Climbs - pitchy with many small climbs
Difficulty - 3. Harder than the miles indicate.
Scale:
0 = 25 miles around San Francisco with the marin headlands climb.
10 = Next to the last day of a hell week in the military with a few hours of sleep.

Hotel - Hotel Braun $69 euros with breakfast. Super clean, well run, friendly spot right by old b40. The father ran in it in the 80’s and has passed it to his son. It’s the only proper business class hotel in town. Highly Recommended.


Comments:
A. Mixed feelings riding down L401. Vets will remember it as B40. It’s been renamed. Dressed like a tree and in a matching military vehicle, I took this route many times. Destination Kaiserslautern where our main support was. Those days are gone, but the land remains mostly the same. Slightly more built upon, there’s a autobahn (a63) now and a few more houses, but it’s mostly unchanged.

The biggest difference is... No US Army... No Air Force... which was formerly ubiquitous on this road. That traffic brought it’s own issues and business opportunities. The Army was small. The Air Force had a larger, but still small, base near the halfway point. So, there were relatively few military personnel around, but being the supply access... they all traveled this road.

B. The Donnersberg is in sight once you make it to the top of the first climb. This is the highest peak in Palatinate. North Point is on the opposite slope. Land here is not flat, but it’s cut by rivers. Everything goes down. Not up. The Army put us on top of the only mountain. It’s a navigation reference from a long way away. 

C. Kirchheimbolanden - It’s a lovely little town with a long history, including passing between French and German rule. They try at tourism. The wine road is nearby, but mostly it’s a locals spot. Family friendly. The buildings are excellent excellent examples of Northern Germany architecture. The town is built on a steep hill. Other that the plaza, little is flat.

Saarland (Germany)

Summary of 2 days - Saarlouis to Kaiserslautern:
  • Crossing into the historically industrial Germany. This area has passed between Germany and France many times. It also features in a the sad history of the “Wars of Religion” and “the 30 years War”. The combination of which left villages barren, poor,  and depopulated.
  • Today, this is a combination of city, hills, valleys, rivers, and deep wood. Not just the wars marked this place, but the occupation post WWII and immigration. This area is often different from most of Germany.
  • The terrain and roads are excellent for biking. The weather is cool to biting... even in the summer.

Facts:

Distance: 45.43 mi
Time: 5:06 / Moving Time: 3:45
Avg Speed: 8.9 mph / Avg Moving Speed: 12.1 mph / Max Speed: 31.4 mph
Elevation Gain: 1,617 ft
Elevation Loss: 1778 ft
Min Elevation: 717 ft
Max Elevation: 1,226 ft
Weather - 60-70's Northern Euro Cool and Sunny not warm.
Climbs - Two. Not horrible.
Difficulty - 5 Distance and a couple hills
Scale:
0 = 25 miles around San Francisco with the marin headlands climb.
10 = Next to the last day of a hell week in the military with a few hours of sleep.

Hotel - Hotel Astra Nice place. Little loud from the street, but maybe the best you’ll find at the price point.


Comments:
A. This is a nice mostly rural section of riding. It could be hard if the road didn’t follow a valley for a while. There were a couple of climbs. It’s pretty before the city starts.
B. Between Landstuhl and Kaiserslautern it’s all American Military stripmall services. Bleak.
C. It’s a tale of two rides between A and B above. If you combine the first half of this leg and the second of yesterday, you have a very fine ride. Well worth returning to.

Facts:

Distance: 52.37 mi
Time: 6:41 / Moving Time: 4:58
Avg Speed: 7.8 mph / Avg Moving Speed: 10.5 mph / Max Speed: 35.2 mph
Elevation Gain: 3,806 ft
Elevation Loss: 3,468 ft
Min Elevation: 619 ft
Max Elevation: 1,213 ft
Weather - 70's Northern Euro Cool and Sunny not warm.
Climbs - All day. 400-700 ft at a time. Hard.
Difficulty - 8. Climbs, Distance, Time. One of the hardest days of the trip.
Scale:
0 = 25 miles around San Francisco with the marin headlands climb.
10 = Next to the last day of a hell week in the military with a few hours of sleep.

Hotel - Sengscheider Hof - Outstanding non-chain German hotel.Outstanding food and service. Nice, almost resort, feel to the courtyard and building. You could spend a pleasant afternoon resting here. Probably the best hotel I stayed at in Germany... or the trip.


Comments:
A. Very difficult day. One of the hardest of the trip. 52 miles with 4 climbs going from 600 ft to 1200 ft.
B. The GPS took me all over the place. Of the 52 miles, 20 where in the right direction. Once you figure that out, it’s pretty disappointing... Thankfully, I had the day to burn, but now I’ve got to focus on making Frankfurt with enough time to box the bike.
C. I was a complete over-cooked noodle by the hotel in NiederwĂĽrzbach... only to find a full hotel, waning light, cold air coming, and the nearest bed 10-15 km’s away. Dang. That was painful.
D. This was a lovely place to ride. Surprised me to find such an area in between the industrial and military parts of Germany. This rolls through rural hills tuck off the side of main corridor running from Saarland to France. Very nice.

Luxembourg: Where the elegant go to shop

This is a placeholder for this section. Update coming soon.

Luxembourg:
Sep 14 - GPS - Mexy to Luxembourg
Sep 16 - GPS - Luxembourg to Saarlouis

WW1:

This is a placeholder for this section. Update coming soon.


WW1:

GPS - Verdun to Mexy

GPS - Sainte-Menehould to Verdun

GPS - Chalons-sur-Marne to Sainte-Menehould


Champagne Valley:

This is a placeholder for this section. Update coming soon.


Champagne Valley:

GPS - Epernay to Chalons-sur-Marne

GPS - Chateau-Thierry to Epernay

GPS - EuroDisney to Chateau-Thierry


Leaving Paris :

This is a placeholder for this section. Update coming soon.


Leaving Paris :

GPS - Paris to EuroDisney

Road to Paris

This is a placeholder for this section. Update coming soon.


Road to Paris:

GPS - Angerville to Paris

South/Central Western France:

This is a placeholder for this section. Update coming soon.

 

South/Central Western France :

GPS - Chateuroux to Selles-sur-Cher

GPS - Saint-Germain-Beaupre to Chateuroux 

GPS - Saint-Yrieix-la-Perche to Limoges

GPS - Perigueux to Saint-Yrieix-la-Perche

Saturday, August 25, 2012

Landes, Gironde/Bordeaux, and Dordogne/PĂ©rigueux

Summary of 4 days - Mont-de-Marsan to Perigueux:
  • Hot beyond toleration. It is over 40c or 105f during a few of these days. This is heat that makes you mad. It is dangerous.
  • You have to be disciplined with your water intake. You need to drink 6-8 ltrs per day. And... you have to do it in small equal amounts throughout the day. That is .75 ltr per hour of effort . The rest comes before and after riding. It is so hot... you will not pee while riding despite essentially consuming a fountain's flow of water.
  • Landes (Aug 20th) is a bizarre part of France. Undifferentiated, flat/crowned, unpopulated, trees with ferns growing below them, bugs to keep you moving along these sometimes paved logging roads... Not where you want to have a problem. It is a hard 50 mile crossing. You have to do it in a day.
  • Once across Landes, this becomes the rural south-west France you might expect. Farmland with an increasing number of vineyards and Chateaux as you move north.
  • The land is undulating at reasonable pitches. Perfect for bike touring.

Facts:
Aug 23th (rest day 24, 25th rain) - GPS - Mussidan to Perigueux
Distance: 26.09 mi
Time: 2:56:39/ Moving Time: 2:19:55
Avg Speed: 8.9 mph / Avg Moving Speed: 11.2 mph / Max Speed: 33.8 mph
Elevation Gain: 906 ft
Elevation Loss: 741 ft
Min Elevation: 196 ft
Max Elevation: 383 ft
Weather - 90’s nice
Climbs - flat
Difficulty - 0
Scale:
0 = 25 miles around San Francisco with the marin headlands climb.
10 = Next to the last day of a hell week in the military with a few hours of sleep.

Hotel - Mercure 90 euros. Nice luxury hotel next to the old town. Highly Recommended
Comments:
A. This was meant to be a rest day. Its an easy flat course.
B. The first interesting city for awhile. I badly need a break, this is perfect. Rain kept me here an extra day.
C. This well worth a visit for the food, church (which looks like st mark's in venice without the gold roof), and old town’s night/cafe life. One of those places you never heard of as an American. You enjoy it more than expected.

Facts:
Distance: 37.26 mi
Time: 5:06:36/ Moving Time: 3:46:13
Avg Speed: 7.3 mph / Avg Moving Speed: 9.9 mph / Max Speed: 38.6 mph
Elevation Gain: 2,415 ft
Elevation Loss: 2,448 ft
Min Elevation: 99 ft
Max Elevation: 551 ft
Weather - 98 F. Still hot but not like the last few days
Climbs - flat
Difficulty - 5 heat, distance, and up/down
Scale:
0 = 25 miles around San Francisco with the marin headlands climb.
10 = Next to the last day of a hell week in the military with a few hours of sleep.

Hotel - Hotel Du Midi 50 euros. No air but a swimming pool. Old style. Super clean.
Comments:
A. As biking goes, this is highly recommended. Small roads with the perfect up and down. There were a couple of dirt road adventures, including one through a vineyard and clump of houses that had me thinking... I am not allowed this way. Someone is going to come out and shoot me with salt rock.
B. At one point, 2 older women passed me on a hill. They were so happy. I let them have it... or that is the story I am sticking with. They should have left a number, so I could visit my manhood once in awhile.
C. This leg can be divided by Bergerac. Before it is isolated farms without many towns. After Bergerac, there are increasing vineyards, and while still small roads/rural there are more towns. The feel is different. You also start seeing actively used Chateaux.

Facts:
Distance: 33.64 mi
Time: 4.36/ Moving Time: 2.53
Avg Speed: 7.3 mph / Avg Moving Speed:11.6 mph / Max Speed: 35.2 mph
Elevation Gain: 1,565 ft
Elevation Loss: 1,611 ft
Min Elevation: 117 ft
Max Elevation: 576 ft
Weather - 40++c/ 100++ F. Blazing hot again
Climbs - flat
Difficulty - 4 heat
Scale:
0 = 25 miles around San Francisco with the marin headlands climb.
10 = Next to the last day of a hell week in the military with a few hours of sleep.

Hotel - Update later (there was only one choice. the owner was nice but strangely without a wife. that seemed odd. and it seemed odd that I would notice.)

Comments:
A. The heat will make you mad.
B. There was a climb at the start. With Landes yesterday, it was a tough start. The top third was being tarred. That was not a pleasant section. After that, it is good riding. The high way can sometimes be dangerous because fast moving cars can see you all the time, but this is a good biking section.
C. Few towns in a land offering little support. I planned to go further, but ran out of water. This is truly rural.

Facts:
Distance: 49.97 mi
Time: 5:15:59/ Moving Time: 4:08:05
Avg Speed: 9.5 mph / Avg Moving Speed:12.1 mph / Max Speed: 31.5 mph
Elevation Gain: 1,355 ft
Elevation Loss: 1,253 ft
Min Elevation: 130 ft
Max Elevation: 505 ft
Weather - 40++c/ 100++ F. Blazing hot
Climbs - flat
Difficulty - 7 this is a top tier difficult day.
Scale:
0 = 25 miles around San Francisco with the marin headlands climb.
10 = Next to the last day of a hell week in the military with a few hours of sleep.

Hotel - Update later
Comments:
A. Landes is a bizarre part of France.
B. It was dangerously hot!
C. The first 25 km are along an unshouldered straight fast industrial highway. Very dangerous and you will look for a way off. Finally after you leave that road, the lack of support and isolation are stressful.
D. Undifferentiated, flat/crowned, unpopulated, trees with ferns growing below them, bugs to keep you moving along these sometimes paved logging roads... Not where you want to have a problem. It is a hard 50 mile crossing. You have to do it in a day..
E. At one point I did not want to follow the gps down a dirt road and ended up taking a longer, more isolated, and dangerous one from Saint Gor back D???.
F. This was one of the hardest days. It looks flat on the map, but really it is crowned - Elevation Gain: 1,355 ft. You go slowly up and then slowly down. The bugs make it so you can not easily take a break and keep you moving above 20km... when you can.